Saturday, January 31, 2009

Woodstove Fence - Mitered Halved Corner Joints


Well Teague is crawling up a storm and I am STILL making the fence to keep him away from the wood stove. Well, I guess I need to adjust my goal. I will have the fence done by the time he is walking. (or driving, whichever is later...)

The fence is five sided to match the stone platform on which the stove sits. I decided to use mitered halved corner joints. They seem simple, but they are harder than they look. Plus, they are right there, out in the open for all to see. Hmm. Maybe I should have used some other joint...

The angle is marked using a sliding bevel (adjusted for each corner as the original builders of the platform didn't give a rip if the angles were congruent or not) marked with a knife, and then a second knife cut in the waste side creates a tiny groove to guide the saw.



The piece is clamped in the end vise and the depth is marked.



Rip down to the shoulder...



...then crosscut the shoulder...



...and clean it all up with a chisel.





Now only 15 more of these and I can start on the endless mortise and tenons. "Hey Teague! Crawling is important for brain development - keep working on it buddy!"


Saturday, January 24, 2009

Josh's Coat Rack


Last Saturday my brother Josh came over and asked me if I would make him a coat rack for his cabin. The initial idea was nice and simple, but then...well I think I'll let him explain it:

http://www.ravensong.us/coatrack/

Be sure to check out all three pages - but fortunately, his iPhone was recharging when I cut my thumb open by rushing and being stupid - so no pictures of that.


Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Sharpening with Scary Sharp


Sharpening tools is a critical skill. Dull tools don't function properly (or at all) and lead to frustration. Being frustrated is not fun. Woodworking should be fun. So, learning to sharpen is paramount.

There are a lot of methods or systems out there - water stones, oil stones, motorized platters etc. Find a system that works for you. I got lucky and found the Scary Sharp system just as I got into hand tool work. It works great!

What is Scary Sharp? Well, basically it is sandpaper on glass. That's it.*

The first key is that the abrasive paper has to be glued FLAT to the glass (which of course also has to be flat). I do this with a thin coat of spray adhesive (nasty stuff - use outside). I have heard that some people just use water to temporarily stick the paper to the glass - I don't trust that idea, but of course, I could be wrong. If the paper is not flat, you will round over your edge, defeating the whole point of sharpening.

Another key is to progress through multiple grades of abrasive paper. The more grades, the less time on each grade to remove the scratches from the previous grade, and the whole process goes smoothly. Done right, Scary Sharp is not slow. It takes me less than a minute to refresh an edge. A couple of minutes if I need to redo a full bevel.

In an effort to eliminate any excuses to postpone sharpening, I made a dedicated sharpening station. This takes up precious shop space, but is very convenient, allowing me to sharpen whenever I want with no set up. I walk over to the sharpening bench, sharpen, and get back to work with a sharp tool.



On the top is the Scary Sharp system. Four glass plates with abrasive paper attached. Left to right the plates have 180/220, 300/400, 500/600 and 1000/1500/2000/2500 grits respectively. The other sides of the plates have coarser grits for heavier work, but I don't use them nearly as much.




On the shelf underneath are various other sharpening related materials: saw vises, hand grinders, various honing guides (The Veritas Mark II is great, but shortly after getting it, I decided to make the leap to honing by hand - much, much simpler!), my Granfor Bruks axe stone (I use it on my drawknives - love it!), large black markers, a box of small strips of abrasive paper for sharpening curved irons, and various dowels and small pieces of wood to be use with the strips of sandpaper. And my Norton Water stones live down here too. I got these a couple of years ago when I though maybe there might be something better than sandpaper. I mean, a lot of people swear by them, so I thought I would give them a try. Yikes! Awful! What a mess, and I couldn't even come close to what I could do with Scary Sharp. I gave them a couple of days, and then packed them up. I'm either going to sell them on Ebay or break them up to make slips for the carving chisels I don't own yet. I'm sure I could get them to work eventually, but why bother? I'm just glad these weren't my first experience with sharpening when I started years ago!



A brief example of the system in use.

Here's a plow plane iron from Ebay. First I want to check to the back for flatness. Using a black marker, I coat the last inch or so.



After about five strokes on the 220 - the thin black line at the edge shows a clear back bevel on the iron. Not what I was looking for. Now I have more work to flattening the back before working on the bevel. It's time to flip the plates over to the coarse sides.



After about four more minutes on the lower grits - that's more like it. Now I can flip them back over and work my way up the higher grits.



One minute total on the fine stuff and it's a mirror! Now it's time for the bevel.



Since I am not shaping the whole bevel, I only care about the very edge. The paper cuts fast, and it's easy to overdo it. Only a few strokes each grit and it has a tiny polished bevel. Combined with the flat, polished back, that equals a very sharp edge. Scary Sharp in fact!



And a final shot of the iron at work in the plow. The shavings are still on the rough side, since there is no chip breaker and no real mouth on this plane. So the result of having this iron truly sharp is not a matter of leaving a fine finish like it would be in a smoothing plane, but I can sure feel the difference in the effort it takes to plow the groove.



Total time spent was about 7-8 minutes, and most of that was flattening the back which I will never need to do again. What's more, the sheets of abrasive paper are getting old and will need to be replaced soon. Then it really works fast!

I know the Scary Sharp system is not for everyone, but it works great for me. If you are just getting started, give it a try. It's inexpensive and easy. Or if your current system is not making you happy, give Scary Sharp a shot.


*If you Google "Scary Sharp" you will find a lot of information, but one of the best places to start is here: http://www.woodbutcher.net/scary.shtml Rod Peterson is a galoot who has posted a duplicate of the now defunct original "Scary Sharp" page and also has information on the origins of the technique. Thanks Rod!

Saturday, January 10, 2009

The Shaker Cupboard Project: The Tools


When I first started working with only human-powered hand tools, I faced two challenges in my way of thinking. First was the "But I'll NEED the tablesaw (or bandsaw, jointer, planer, router etc.) to do that job" mindset. The second was "Okay, I CAN do it with only hand tools, but I'll NEED A LOT of them!" Neither of course was true, although you might not be sure about the second one if you looked at the picture of the tools I used when I made my Shaker cupboard.


I thought it might be interesting to take a closer look at the set of tools I used on the cupboard project. In particular, I wanted to compare the set of tools used to build the existing cupboard with the theoretical smallest set of tools required to build a duplicate cupboard. Then, just to make it more interesting, I thought I should create the absolute smallest tool set required to build a cupboard that was essentially the same, but not identical.


The Full Tool Set


The design phase of the project was very basic - overall dimensions, rough sketches etc. Most of the construction details, and techniques were worked out as they came up. Frequently, I experimented with various ideas or features before finalizing my plan. This type of "adjust as you go" building meant that I used a much bigger set of tools than would be required if I were to duplicate the same cupboard.


The first picture and list show all the tools I used during the Shaker cupboard project. (You can click on the picture for a closer look.)



Top Row – left to right:


Auger bits, shop-made hole gauge, Miller’s Falls #2 hand drill, drill index with twist bits, Stanley (Yankee clone) 12” brace, hex bit adapter for brace, hex bit Phillips driver, counter sinking bit, Yankee 8” brace, Miller’s Falls 6” brace, Worth drawknife, card scraper, Veritas spokeshaves ( flat sole and convex), Veritas shoulder planes (large and small), shop-made mallet, claw hammer, needle nose pliers, punch, nail set, rubber mallet, Phillips head and flat screwdrivers, mortising gauge, panel gauge, marking gauge (cutting), marking gauge (pin), Stanley #95 butt gauge, outside calipers, framing square with Veritas Square Fence, 12” square, 6” square, 6” combination square, awl, pencils, marking knife and Lufkin 6’ folding rule.


Bottom Row – left to right:


¼” side bead plane, 3/8” cove plane, 1” ovolo plane, Stanley #71 router plane, Lie-Nielsen #98&99 side rabbet planes, Stanley #40 scrub plane, Stanley #48 match plane, Record # 778 rebate plane, Stanley #3 smoother, Stanley #4 ½ smoother, Stanley # 5 jack plane, Stanley #7 jointer, Stanley #18 block plane, Stanley #65 low angle block plane, Narex 16mm chisel, triangular file, half-round bastard cut file, half-round single cut file, ¾” Stanley chisel.


Saw Bench top row – left to right:


Disston D8 20” cross-cut panel saw (12 tpi), Unknown “Warranted Superior” 18” cross-cut panel saw (9 tpi), shop-made turning saw, Bishop combination cabinet saw with depth stop.


Saw Bench bottom row – left to right:


Disston D8 26” rip saw (5 ½ tpi), late model Disston No. 4 cross-cut back saw (12 tpi), “Glouster”? rip back saw (8 tpi).


Ground:

main assembly of treadle lathe, sticking board.


Not pictured:

Miterbox and saw, turning tools (skew, gouge, parting)



The Minimum "Duplicate" Tool Set


The second picture and list show the set of tools that would be required to create a duplicate cupboard. This set is significantly smaller for two main reasons. Some tools were eliminated because the design feature or construction technique requiring them had been eliminated. An example of this is the 1/4" side beading plane - once I had decided to forgo the beading on the inner face of the door panels, the plane became unnecessary. Other tools were eliminated because they were not strictly required. For example, the 12" and 6" braces, although they make specific tasks easier (boring larger holes and driving screws respectively), they are not required as the 8" brace can also handle these jobs.



In the following list, the names of tools that have been removed from the set (and photograph) have been reduced in size and turned gray.


Top Row – left to right:


Auger bits, shop-made hole gauge, Miller’s Falls #2 hand drill, drill index with twist bits, Stanley (Yankee clone) 12” brace, hex bit adapter for brace, hex bit Phillips driver, counter sinking bit, Yankee 8” brace, Miller’s Falls 6” brace, Worth drawknife, card scraper, Veritas spokeshaves ( flat sole and convex), Veritas shoulder planes (large and small), shop-made mallet, claw hammer, needle nose pliers, punch, nail set, rubber mallet, Phillips head and flat screwdrivers, mortising gauge, panel gauge, marking gauge (cutting), marking gauge (pin), Stanley #95 butt gauge, outside calipers, framing square with Veritas Square Fence, 12” square, 6” square, 6” combination square, awl, pencils, marking knife and Lufkin 6’ folding rule.


Bottom Row – left to right:


¼” side bead plane, 3/8” cove plane, 1” ovolo plane, Stanley #71 router plane, Lie-Nielsen #98&99 side rabbet planes, Stanley #40 scrub plane, Stanley #48 match plane, Record # 778 rebate plane, Stanley #3 smoother, Stanley #4 ½ smoother, Stanley # 5 jack plane, Stanley #7 jointer, Stanley #18 block plane, Stanley #65 low angle block plane, Narex 16mm chisel, triangular file, half-round bastard cut file, half-round single cut file, ¾” Stanley chisel.


Saw Bench top row – left to right:


Disston D8 20” cross-cut panel saw (12 tpi), Unknown “Warranted Superior” 18” cross-cut panel saw (9 tpi), shop-made turning saw, Bishop combination cabinet saw with depth stop.


Saw Bench bottom row – left to right:


Disston D8 26” rip saw (5 ½ tpi), late model Disston No. 4 cross-cut back saw (12 tpi), “Glouster”? rip back saw (8 tpi).


Ground:

main assembly of treadle lathe, sticking board.


Not pictured:


Miterbox and saw, turning tools (skew, gouge, parting)



The Absolute Minimum Tool Set


The final picture is the absolute minimum set of tools required to build a very similar, but not identical cupboard. To create this set I tried to imagine how I could slightly modify the features and techniques use on the actual cupboard. If I could think of an alternative, I eliminated the tools that would not be required. My goal was to make this set as small as possible.


Here's the photo and list:



Top Row – left to right:


Auger bits, shop-made hole gauge, Miller’s Falls #2 hand drill, drill index with twist bits, Stanley (Yankee clone) 12” brace, hex bit adapter for brace, hex bit Phillips driver, counter sinking bit, Yankee 8” brace, Miller’s Falls 6” brace, Worth drawknife, card scraper, Veritas spokeshaves ( flat sole and convex), Veritas shoulder planes (large and small), shop-made mallet, claw hammer, needle nose pliers, punch, nail set, rubber mallet, Phillips head and flat screwdrivers, mortising gauge, panel gauge, marking gauge (cutting), marking gauge (pin), Stanley #95 butt gauge, outside calipers, framing square with Veritas Square Fence, 12” square, 6” square, 6” combination square, awl, pencils, marking knife and Lufkin 6’ folding rule.


Bottom Row – left to right:


¼” side bead plane, 3/8” cove plane, 1” ovolo plane, Stanley #71 router plane, Lie-Nielsen #98&99 side rabbet planes, Stanley #40 scrub plane, Stanley #48 match plane, Record # 778 rebate plane, Stanley #3 smoother, Stanley #4 ½ smoother, Stanley # 5 jack plane, Stanley #7 jointer, Stanley #18 block plane, Stanley #65 low angle block plane, Narex 16mm chisel, triangular file, half-round bastard cut file, half-round single cut file, ¾” Stanley chisel.


Saw Bench top row – left to right:


Disston D8 20” cross-cut panel saw (12 tpi), Unknown “Warranted Superior” 18” cross-cut panel saw (9 tpi), shop-made turning saw, Bishop combination cabinet saw with depth stop.


Saw Bench bottom row – left to right:


Disston D8 26” rip saw (5 ½ tpi), late model Disston No. 4 cross-cut back saw (12 tpi), “Glouster”? rip back saw (8 tpi).


Ground:


main assembly of treadle lathe, sticking board.


Not pictured:


Miterbox and saw, turning tools (skew, gouge, parting),1/4" chisel


The original set of 70 tools has been reduced to 25. Here are some examples of the ideas I used to generated this list of tools.


  • By changing the back to ship lap rather than tongue & groove, I could eliminate the #48 match plane (I also used the #48 to create the grooves in the frame to hold the panel, so I fudged a little and added a 1/4" chisel to cover that job).
  • By further changing the back to simple beveled laps, I could also eliminate the #778 rabbet plane (The rabbets that make the tongues on the panel can be cut with a knife and chisel).
  • The #5 jack plane can work as a smoother and a jointer in a pinch, so the #3 and the #7 are not absolutely required.
  • The turning saw, which was used to create the curved elements of the cupboard base, was eliminated by switching that task to the drawknife. This would definitely be a more awkward technique, but quite doable. Alternatively, I could forgo the curves and create a more angular base using only straight cuts with the panel saws.
  • The #71 router plane, which made creating the dadoes and hinge mortises easy, could be effectively replaced by using the chisel alone.
  • A correctly sized twist bit, turned counter clock-wise, will make rough, but usable countersinks for screws.
  • Although not as convenient as the hand drill, the brace can be used with twist bits.
  • The cross-cut back saw can be used to rip (not ideal) thus making the rip back saw unnecessary.
  • The cove moulding could be replaced by a simple bevel moulding allowing the jack plane to substitute for the cove moulding plane.


I think it would be interesting to make a second cupboard to test my theoretical minimal tool set. But that isn't going to happen anytime soon. I might be able to find the time to make two versions of a somewhat smaller project. If I do, I'll post about my experience.



Friday, January 2, 2009

Shaker Cupboard Photo Essay - Part III


Playing with the mouldings for the cupboard - ovolo and cove.



Put together as a built-up profile.



Mock-up of crown moulding in place - I liked it, but it was to "colonial" for this cupboard.



A simpler crown moulding mock-up - better - but I would eventually remove the thumbnail top and just go with a simple cove moulding. This also shows a test of one hinge design - taped in place - I liked it, but in the end went with one that had removable pins - it was easier to work with.



Doors complete - final fitting with the planes.



Doors fit - the end is in sight!



Hinge work - and a new appreciation of the Stanley #95 butt gauge.



Close-up of chisel scoring of hinge mortise.



Finishing the mortise with a router plane.



Testing the fit.



Making pilot holes with awl - a sharpened finish nail chucked in old cobbler's awl - the twisting motion seperates the wood fibers - I have more control than with a drill.



Lower doors hung.



Upper doors hung and knobs installed - I turned the knobs on my spring pole (shock cord) lathe - definitely the craftsmanship of risk - I need WAY more practice, and I think I should have used air dried birch rather than kiln dried pine.



Detail of knobs - the conflicting grain patterns won't matter once the cupboard is painted.



Speaking of which... milk paint of course - Union Blue from The Real Milk Paint Co. The cove mouldings had also been added to the top and the step.



And it's done! "Make Way! Blow the trumpets!"

There are still a couple of tweaks needed. I don't like how bright the hinges are - one day I will dull them down a bit. And I might add a second coat of milk paint eventually, but that depends on how it ages... But for now we are very happy with it! And I am very glad to have it out of the shop and in the house! Finally!



A group shot of the tools used on this project. The two contraptions at the bottom are my shooting board and the main part of the treadle lathe (w/o treadle). Missing from photo: miter box.



Shaker Cupboard Photo Essay - Part II


Laying out door panels with a panel gauge.



Ripping close to the line - just a little work left for the jointer plane.



How a knifed line is better than a penciled line - it gives you visible feedback as you approach the line - including whether you are planing the edge square.





Marking one end square to the edge.



Again the knife line tells all - close, but not perfect.



Some low angle block plane work - now it's perfect. I like that glue joint too - the time spent with the jointer before glue-up was well worth it.



Here's a short series on using a square and marking knife together. It's simple really, but until I learned this trick, my accuracy suffered.

Marking the panel to final length - the folding rule is more accurately used on edge.



Keep the knife point in the mark and slide the square down until the knife stops it - simple and accurate.



Turning the corner (arris) with the knife.



Using the corner mark to align the square for marking the edge.



Over to the saw bench for cutting to final length.



Trying to visualize the cupboard with doors - looking for some light at the end of the tunnel - still a long way to go...



Shaker Cupboard Photo Essay - Part I


Some projects get completed quickly. Some projects take longer than expected. Then there are those projects that turn into epic journeys, full of side tracks, dead ends, new skills and maybe even a trip to the emergency room. The Shaker Cupboard was one of the latter.

Almost three years ago, my wife and I, along with our friends Dave and Sarah, visited the Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill in Kentucky. I didn't know it at the time, but I took the picture that would inspire this project. In the back of the Centre Family Dwelling, I saw this step-back cupboard:



About a year later, I decided to create my own version - based on the Pleasant Hill cupboard, but with modifications made to fit our needs. I made some sketches, some simple plans and got to work. I had no idea how long a project this was going to turn into. In the end, the cupboard, in various stages of completion, was in the shop for about two years. Obviously, I did not work on it constantly, or even consistently.

I didn't decide to take pictures of the process until it was already underway. My intention is that this will be a photo essay, and as such will be more images than words. I'll try to keep it to short captions at most.

Attaching the cupboard back: bench and tools (coins were for spacing the T&G boards).



Bench with tools and cupboard.



Cupboard with back complete.



Detail of adjustable shelf supports in lower section of cupboard - shelves get notched to fit around vertical supports.



Still life with hand tools (So I like pictures of working tools - gotta problem with that?)



Shelves in place.



Face frames installed - it's starting to look real. I spent a lot of time making sure that the shelves could still be removed after the face frames and doors were in place. They can - just.



Frame and panel door mock-up.



Rail, stile and panel test joint. In the end I decided against the beading.